Ah! I think this was recently reprinted in the "Intoxication" issue of Lapham's. Very interesting essay in a very interesting magazine. That one also turned me on to the "Coffee Cantata" of Bach:
Lapham's is second to none at what they do. I wish it were more available online. Some of their web productions are beautiful, but it's so hit and miss what you can find on their site that I eventually gave up.
http://coldewey.cc/post/49474192760/bach-ei-wie-schmeckt-der...